In the past, glue wasn’t a product that you bought but something you made yourself depending on your needs. Humans have been making a wide range of glues for a very long time; in fact, archaeological evidence shows that as far back as 200,000 years ago Neanderthals were gluing their axe heads and spears to their handles. Not that long ago, you would have made your own glues for home or work and the idea of buying them pre-made would have been bizarre.
Although modern synthetic glues work well, they come with trade-offs: volatile organic compounds, petroleum-derived compounds, and formaldehyde all come with environmental impact and/or significant health risks. They often come in quantities far exceeding what you need for a single project, then solidify in the tube before you use them again. If you’re tired of choosing between twelve virtually identical products in plastic bottles, all claiming to be “the strongest” or “industrial strength”, the natural homemade recipes below are just what you need.
These glues use ingredients you already have in your kitchen or can source easily. Some take five minutes to make, while others require patience. Some are waterproof enough for boat building and others are deliberately temporary. A few date back thousands of years and are still the best choice for specific jobs today. None require a chemistry degree, and most are more forgiving than their synthetic counterparts because natural glues tend to fail gracefully, letting you adjust and reposition, rather than setting instantly and permanently in the wrong position.
Many of these recipes are vegetarian (plant or mineral-based), except for those containing hide, gelatine, or isinglass. We have marked vegetarian recipes with a (V) symbol for clarity. None of these glues is considered toxic once cured, although some will require caution/safety equipment DURING preparation (for example, if you use lime or flammable ingredients). If you are letting young children make and use these glues, the ones that are safest are any flour/starch glues, milk glues, egg white glues, and linseed glues.
1. How to make wheatpaste glue (no-cook flour paste) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Completely non-toxic, dries clear, and provides moderate strength for porous materials, although it isn’t waterproof.
Typical uses: Paper crafts, cardboard construction, applying labels to glass jars, poster hanging, children’s craft projects, papier-mâché, scrapbooking.
Ingredients for wheatpaste glue (makes 250 ml)
- 75 g plain wheat flour
- 175 ml cold water
Method: Mix the flour with cold water until you achieve a consistency like thick pancake batter, ensuring no lumps remain. Allow this to stand for around 10 minutes while the gluten develops. The paste is now ready to use. Simply add more water if it becomes too thick.
Notes: This is the simplest glue to make and requires no cooking. It works best on porous surfaces. The paste will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator but may begin to smell sour after that. For longer storage, add 1 tablespoon of white vinegar or salt as a preservative. Apply with a brush or spreader.
2. How to make cooked starch glue (flour paste glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: This cooked version is stronger than no-cook wheatpaste with a smooth, consistent texture and good adhesion, although still non-waterproof. It can be made with various starches depending on what you have available.
Typical uses: Wallpaper hanging, bookbinding, heavy paper projects, mounting fabric to wood or leather, cardboard modelling, covering boxes.
Ingredients for starch paste glue (makes 250 ml)
- 50 g wheat flour, rice flour, rye flour, cornflour, or potato starch
- 50 ml cold water
- 200 ml boiling water
- 1/2 tablespoon powdered alum (optional, for permanence)
Method: Mix your chosen flour or starch thoroughly with cold water to form a thick, lump-free paste. Stir in the alum if using. While stirring rapidly, pour boiling water into the mixture until it cooks through and becomes translucent. The paste should be thin enough to apply with a brush when warm. Allow to cool before use, thinning with cold water if necessary.
Notes: Rice flour creates an excellent paste for fine paper work. Rye flour produces a more adhesive paste than wheat but with a grey colour and is particularly good for adhering cloth to wood or leather. Do not allow the paste to boil as this reduces adhesiveness and may cause it to peel. Adding a small amount of turpentine (equal to half the weight of starch used) while still hot increases the water resistance. The paste keeps for about a week refrigerated.
3. How to make sourdough paste glue (fermented flour glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Stronger than regular flour paste, this is a tenacious, smooth adhesive that was historically valued for more demanding applications like repairs.
Typical uses: Shoe repair, heavy-duty paper applications, adhering thick materials, bookbinding.
Ingredients for sourdough paste glue (makes 250 ml)
- 100 g barley flour (or wheat flour)
- 100 ml warm water
- 100 ml hot water (added after fermentation)
Method: Mix barley flour with warm water to create a thick paste. Place the mixture in a warm location and allow it to ferment for up to 3 days until it develops a distinctly sour smell (read our how-to to understand more about the fermentation process). Once fermented, add hot water to bring it to working consistency – it should flow from a brush.
Notes: Fermentation creates a notably stronger bond than unfermented flour paste. The sour smell indicates the paste is ready; this is normal and desirable. Once fermented, use within a few days. This glue was traditionally used by shoemakers for its superior holding power. Store in a loosely covered container during fermentation to allow gases to escape.
4. How to make rice paste glue – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Rice paste is exceptionally smooth and excellent for delicate work. As a traditional Asian adhesive with archival quality when properly made, it remains flexible when dry and can be reversed with water, making it ideal for conservation work.
Typical uses: Paper conservation, bookbinding, Asian art mounting, delicate paper repairs, attaching thin fabrics.
Ingredients for rice paste glue (makes 250 ml)
- 60 g rice flour (or 100 g cooked white rice)
- 200 ml water (or more for traditional method)
Method: For the rice flour method: follow the cooked starch paste recipe above using rice flour. For the traditional method: cook white rice until very soft and overcooked. Mash thoroughly with water until you achieve a smooth, lump-free paste. Strain through muslin if necessary to remove any remaining grains.
Notes: Rice paste is favoured in conservation work and traditional Asian bookbinding because of the qualities above. It’s particularly suited to fine paper as it doesn’t cockle or stain. Use it fresh and don’t store for more than a few days as it can develop mould. Some conservators add a few drops of clove oil as a preservative.
5. How to make dextrin glue – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Dextrin glue provides strong adhesion and keeps well when dry. It can be reconstituted with moisture, which is why it was used commercially for postage stamps and gummed labels.
Typical uses: Preparing gummed labels, envelope flaps, postage stamp mounting, attaching labels to glass, paper crafts.
Ingredients for dextrin glue (makes 250 ml)
- 125 g dextrin powder
- 125 ml hot water
- 1 teaspoon glycerine (optional, to reduce brittleness)
Method: Dissolve dextrin in hot water, stirring until you achieve a consistency similar to honey. Add glycerine if you want to reduce brittleness. Allow the mixture to cool.
Notes: Dextrin is created by heating starch (it’s the brown residue that forms on bread crusts). It can be purchased ready to use. If you want to make your own, spread cornflour or potato starch thinly on a baking tray and heat in a low oven (around 200°C) for up to 3 hours until it turns light brown. Dextrin glue can be applied to paper and then allowed to dry, creating gummed surfaces that stick when moistened exactly like traditional postage stamps did. The glue keeps for months in a sealed jar. It won’t appeal to insects and vermin, making it suitable for long-term applications.
6. How to make hide glue – homemade recipe
Qualities: Hide glue is very strong and has been the traditional cabinetmaker’s adhesive for centuries. It’s reversible with heat and moisture, which makes it invaluable for antique restoration, and provides excellent adhesion to wood.
Typical uses: Furniture making and repair, antique furniture restoration, musical instrument construction, veneering, gilding, woodworking joints, bookbinding.
Ingredients for hide glue (makes 250 ml)
- 85 g hide glue granules
- 170 ml water
Method: Cover the hide glue granules completely with the water and leave to soak for at least 12 hours until the granules have absorbed all the water and swollen considerably. Place the soaked glue in a bain-marie (double boiler), or a jar set in a pan of water, and heat gently, never allowing it to boil. Stir until completely dissolved. The glue is ready when it runs freely from a brush in a continuous stream without breaking into drops. The consistency should be like thin treacle. Keep the outer water vessel full to prevent burning.
Notes: (Safety tip) Use a bain-marie or water bath; never heat directly as hide glue can burn. Hide glue must be applied warm and to warm surfaces for best results. Work quickly because it sets as it cools. The thinner the glue layer, the stronger the joint. Fresh glue is stronger than repeatedly remelted glue, so make only what you need. Apply pressure until the glue sets. For end grain wood, first seal the pores with thin glue and allow to dry, then apply strong glue for the joint. Hide glue that dries slowly creates stronger bonds than quick-drying formulations. If you have rough joints, adding sawdust, brick dust, or powdered chalk creates a gap-filling adhesive. Hot glue applied to hot wood will be absorbed too quickly and fail. This remains the adhesive of choice for restoring antique furniture because it’s reversible and authentic to the period.
7. How to make gelatine glue – homemade recipe
Qualities: Gelatine glue is similar to hide glue but made from culinary gelatine. It’s reversible with heat, remains flexible when dry, and provides moderate strength suitable for delicate applications.
Typical uses: Crafts requiring flexibility, silk flower making, ribbon work, mounting lightweight fabrics, paper crafts, creating printing rollers when mixed with glycerine.
Ingredients for gelatine glue (makes 250 ml)
- 30 g gelatine powder (or equivalent in sheets)
- 220 ml water (cold for blooming, then heated)
Method: For gelatine powder: sprinkle powder over 100 ml of cold water, allow to bloom for 5 minutes, then add the remaining 120 ml of water and heat gently until dissolved, stirring continuously. For gelatine sheets: soak in cold water for 5 minutes, squeeze out the excess water, then dissolve in 220 ml of heated water over a low heat without boiling.
Notes: Apply while still warm as the glue solidifies when cool. Can be gently reheated if it sets before you finish working. Use within 2 days as it doesn’t keep well. When mixed in equal proportions with glycerine (whilst hot), it cools to a rubber-like compound historically used for printer’s rollers and stamp buffers. To adhere leather to metal, wash the metal with a hot gelatine solution, steep the leather in hot nut gall infusion (tannic acid), then bring the two materials together while both are still warm. Gelatine glue is gentler than hide glue and better suited to delicate applications.
8. How to make vinegar gelatine glue – homemade recipe
Qualities: This gelatine preparation keeps indefinitely and is really convenient for small repairs. It creates a fine adhesive for delicate work that sets quickly when warmed.
Typical uses: Small repairs, mending china and glass, delicate craft work, attaching findings to jewellery.
Ingredients for gelatine vinegar glue (makes roughly 100 g of prepared gelatine)
- 50 g gelatine sheets, shredded
- 15 ml water
- 35 ml white vinegar (or 12 ml glacial acetic acid diluted with 23 ml water)
Method: Place the shredded gelatine in a wide-mouthed jar. Add water and vinegar (or diluted glacial acetic acid). Cork tightly. The gelatine will swell into firm, elastic, worm-like pieces over several hours.
Notes: (Safety tip) If using glacial acetic acid, work in a well-ventilated area and avoid skin contact. White vinegar can be substituted for glacial acetic acid but is less effective. To use, remove a small piece of the swelled gelatine and warm the end briefly in a candle or match flame. It will immediately liquefy into clear glue which can be applied directly. This method is ideal for tiny repairs that require only a drop of glue. The acid acts as a preservative, so prepared gelatine keeps indefinitely in a sealed jar. The convenience of having glue ready instantly makes this particularly useful for small mending jobs.
9. How to make gum arabic glue – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Gum arabic glue dries clear and is suitable for delicate materials. It’s been the traditional choice for labels and leather work for centuries.
Typical uses: Attaching labels to glass, mounting leather or oilcloth to tabletops, bookbinding, paper crafts, creating gummed surfaces.
Ingredients for gum arabic glue (makes 250 ml)
Simple version:
- 100 g gum arabic powder
- 50 g brown sugar
- 100 ml water
Alternative version:
- 65 g gum arabic powder
- 50 g starch powder
- 15 g white sugar
- 120 ml cold water
Method: Simple version: Mix the gum arabic powder with brown sugar. Dissolve in water, stirring until you achieve a cream-like consistency. Alternative version: Combine all the dry ingredients thoroughly in a mortar, then gradually add cold water while stirring until it reaches the thickness of melted glue.
Notes: The dry powder mixture keeps indefinitely and can be mixed with water as needed using a stiff brush. When adhering leather or oilcloth to tabletops, moisten the leather before applying the paste. Apply glue to the surface, carefully lay the material on, then smooth from the centre to the edges using a rolling pin. Trim your edges after the paste has dried. Use a woollen cloth for a final smoothing of leather. A variant using gum tragacanth (another tree sap) can be made by mixing equal parts of powdered gum tragacanth and gum arabic, then moistening with diluted acetic acid or vinegar. This creates a very strong adhesive historically used by shoemakers.
10. How to make mastic glue (tree resin glue) – homemade recipe
Qualities: Mastic glue sets hard and provides strong adhesion. As a solvent-based adhesive, it works well for non-porous materials and was the traditional jewellery adhesive for securing gemstones.
Typical uses: Adhering glass and gemstones to metal in jewellery, paper laminating, certain bookbinding applications, small repairs requiring a strong hold.
Ingredients for mastic/tree resin glue (makes 250 ml)
Simple version (V):
- 100 g gum mastic or other tree resin
- 150 ml alcohol: ethanol (methylated spirits, denatured alcohol) or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
Complex version:
- 30 g gum mastic
- 100 ml alcohol (see simple recipe above)
- 50 g isinglass
- 50 ml brandy or rum
- 10 g gum galbanum or gum ammoniacum
Method: Simple version: Place resin in a jar and cover with alcohol. Seal and keep at room temperature, shaking occasionally, until the resin fully dissolves (takes several days to a week). Complex version: Dissolve gum mastic in alcohol. Separately, dissolve isinglass (pre-softened in water but discard the water) in alcohol with gum galbanum or ammoniacum, ground until dissolved. Combine both solutions with gentle heat, then filter through cloth while hot.
Notes: (Safety tip) Alcohol is highly flammable so work in a well-ventilated area away from flames. The simple alcohol-resin solution works well for paper and light craft applications. The complex version with isinglass creates a very strong adhesive, historically used in jewellery making – warm the metal pieces gently, apply the glue, and the bond is exceptionally strong. Store in a tightly sealed glass bottle and warm the bottle in hot water when needed (never over direct flame). Use a thin-walled bottle and warm it gradually in steam before placing in hot water to prevent cracking from thermal shock.
11. How to make milk glue (simple casein glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Milk glue is completely non-toxic, making it ideal for children’s crafts. It provides moderate strength on porous materials but isn’t waterproof.
Typical uses: Paper crafts, cardboard projects, cork, light woodworking, children’s activities, school projects.
Ingredients for milk/casein glue (makes roughly 250 ml)
Method: Heat the milk in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in vinegar and continue heating while the milk separates into solid curds and liquid whey. Strain through muslin or a fine sieve, collecting the curds. Discard the whey (or save it for baking). To neutralise, stir bicarbonate of soda into the curds until the fizzing stops. The glue is now ready. Alternatively, wash the curds repeatedly in cold water until they no longer taste sour. Thin with milk if too thick.
- 625 ml skimmed milk
- 12 ml white vinegar
- 2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda (optional, for neutralisation)
Notes: Curdling creates casein, the protein in milk. Use very fresh milk for the best results. The glue keeps for up to 3 days refrigerated. The neutralisation step with bicarbonate of soda is optional but reduces acidity and improves shelf life slightly. This is an excellent project to make with children as it’s safe and demonstrates chemistry principles. The glue works best on porous surfaces. For a stronger, waterproof version, see the casein glue recipes below.
12. How to make egg white glue – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Egg white glue dries clear and is surprisingly strong. When fully cured, it’s resistant to moisture, making it the traditional choice for labels that needed to withstand damp conditions.
Typical uses: Attaching labels to bottles and jars (withstands moisture), fine paper work, gilding, delicate repairs, mounting lightweight materials.
Ingredients for egg white glue
- 1 fresh egg white makes enough glue for approximately 100 medium labels. Use more eggs if you need more glue.
Method: Simply separate egg white from yolk. Use fresh, unbeaten white directly as adhesive. Apply with a brush.
Notes: Fresh egg white (albumen) creates a stronger bond than aged whites. When dry, it’s nearly proof against mould and fermentation, making it excellent for long-term applications. Labels attached with egg white and thoroughly dried will not loosen even when bottles are immersed in water for extended periods. The albumen is essentially protein that forms a strong, water-resistant film as it dries. It’s a very cheap (or free if you have chickens!) glue. Allow items to dry completely before exposing them to moisture, which can take 24 hours or more. Once cured, the bond is quite permanent.
13. How to make flaxseed glue (linseed glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Flaxseed glue creates a gel-like adhesive that’s completely non-toxic and easy to make. It’s similar to commercial mucilages in consistency and performance.
Typical uses: Paper crafts, light adhesive applications, temporary mounting, envelope sealing.
Ingredients for flaxseed glue (makes 250 ml)
- 1 tablespoon flaxseeds (linseeds)
- 250 ml water
Method: Combine flaxseeds and water in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The mixture will become viscous and gel-like. Strain through a fine sieve to remove all seeds, pressing to extract all the gel. Thin with hot water if too thick.
Notes: This is essentially the same process used to make flaxseed hair gel. The mucilage from the seeds creates a serviceable adhesive for light applications. Use fresh as it doesn’t keep well, lasting 3 days in the fridge at most. The consistency can be adjusted by adding more or less water during cooking. This was a traditional adhesive when stronger options weren’t necessary. Being plant-based, it’s completely non-toxic and safe for children to use.
14. How to make waterproof casein glue – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: This waterproof casein glue is strong and resistant to petroleum, oils, and water. It hardens thoroughly and has considerable tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
Typical uses: Woodworking, cardboard construction, flooring, mending china and glass, making printing blocks, outdoor applications requiring water resistance.
Ingredients for waterproof casein glue (makes roughly 150 g dry powder to mix as needed)
To make the lime tannate:
- 50 g tannin powder or strong oak bark tea
- Lime water made from 25 g hydrated lime powder (calcium hydroxide, also called slaked lime – NOT quicklime) mixed into 500 ml water
To make the glue:
- 50 g lime tannate (prepared above)
- 50 g – 500 g casein powder (ratio 1:1 to 1:10 depending on desired strength)
Method: First prepare the lime tannate by dissolving the tannin in water (or make a strong oak bark tea). In a separate container, make lime water by stirring hydrated lime powder into water, allowing it to settle for several hours, then carefully pouring off only the clear liquid, leaving the settled powder behind. Slowly add the lime water to the tannin solution. A chemical reaction will occur, forming solid particles that cloud the liquid. Keep adding lime water until these particles stop forming and red litmus paper dipped in the mixture turns blue. Filter the mixture to separate the liquid from the solid particles. The solid material is lime tannate – dry it thoroughly. Mix the dried lime tannate with casein powder in your chosen ratio (anywhere from equal parts to 1 part lime tannate for every 10 parts casein). Dry this mixture thoroughly, then grind it to the finest possible powder. Store the powder in a sealed container. When ready to use, mix the powder with water to create a glue of your desired consistency.
Notes: (Safety tip) Lime water is caustic so wear gloves and eye protection. Work in a well-ventilated area. This creates an insoluble glue resistant to water, petroleum, and oils. It was commercially produced and very widely used before synthetic adhesives arrived, performing similarly to modern wood glues in many applications. The chemistry involves the tannin reacting with the casein protein in the presence of lime. It’s very hard when dry with considerable strength. Can be used for outdoor applications where moisture resistance is required. The dry powder mixture will keep indefinitely if stored in a sealed container.
15. How to make casein lime glue (curd glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: An exceptionally strong adhesion that resists both water and moderate heat. In wall painting and frescos, casein-lime glue serves as a ‘ground’ or sizing layer, preparing lime plaster, gypsum, and stone surfaces to receive paint.
Typical uses: Mending glass and earthenware, general repairs, bonding materials in humid conditions, outdoor applications.
Ingredients for casein lime glue (makes roughly 250 ml)
- 100 ml skimmed milk
- 2 ml white vinegar
- Whites of 4 eggs
- Approximately 80 g hydrated lime powder (calcium hydroxide, also called slaked lime – NOT quicklime)
Method: Add vinegar to skimmed milk and allow the curd to settle. Pour off the liquid whey and wash the remaining curd thoroughly with cold water until free from acid. Beat the egg whites and add to the curd, beating thoroughly to combine. Mix in sufficient lime to form a workable paste.
Notes: (Safety tip) Lime is caustic so wear gloves and eye protection. Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid breathing in the dust. The hydrated lime reacts with the proteins in the casein and egg whites to create a water-resistant bond. That’s why the glue can withstand moisture and moderate heat, unlike simple milk glue. The egg whites add elasticity to prevent the cured glue from becoming too brittle. Work quickly once the lime is mixed in; the mixture will start to thicken within 20 minutes and become difficult to apply.
16. How to make waterproof linseed oil glue – homemade recipe
Qualities: This glue is genuinely waterproof – it will neither absorb moisture nor allow water to penetrate through it. It’s durable and adheres even in damp conditions.
Typical uses: Outdoor woodworking, boat building, damp-resistant applications, garden furniture, exterior repairs.
Ingredients for linseed oil glue (makes roughly 250 ml)
- 150 g hide glue granules
- 300 ml water (for initial soaking)
- 75 ml boiled linseed oil
- 1 tablespoon whiting (powdered chalk, sometimes called Blanc de Meudon)
Method: Soak the hide glue granules in water until fully swollen without losing shape. Place the swollen glue in a heavy pot or crucible without adding extra water. Add boiled linseed oil. Heat over low flame, stirring frequently, until the mixture becomes gelatinous and the oil disappears into the glue. This may take several hours or all day. Add small amounts of water if needed to replace evaporation and maintain workable consistency. When no oil is visible on the surface, stir in the whiting and mix thoroughly.
Notes: (Safety tip) Heat slowly and carefully as the mixture can spatter. Keep away from open flames. Ensure good ventilation. The key is patient heating until the oil fully incorporates as rushing this produces inferior glue. The resulting adhesive unites materials durably and hardens quickly. Its chief advantage is that it neither absorbs water nor allows water to pass through, making it ideal for applications exposed to moisture. Despite being waterproof once cured, ensure it’s applied to clean, dry surfaces for the best possible results. Keeps for months if stored in a sealed jar. Warm gently before use if it becomes too thick. Before modern synthetic adhesives came along, this was used for outdoor furniture and anywhere moisture resistance was essential.
17. How to make pitch glue (pine resin glue) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: Pitch is the oldest known adhesive, used since 200,000 BC. It’s waterproof, strong when set, and was the traditional boat sealant throughout history.
Typical uses: Waterproofing boats and wooden vessels, outdoor repairs, tool handle attachment, water-resistant bonding, gap filling.
Ingredients for pitch glue (quantity is variable)
- 200 g pine resin (collected from pine trees or purchased as rosin/colophony)
- Hot water for straining
- Optional: 100 g powdered charcoal (improves strength)
Method: Collect resin from pine, spruce, or larch trees (it appears as hardened amber droplets on the bark). Alternatively, purchase pine rosin. Melt the resin in hot water and strain through a coarse cloth to remove bark and debris. For a stronger glue, mix 2 parts melted resin with 1 part powdered charcoal while still liquid.
Notes: (Safety tip) Heat carefully as resin is flammable when molten. Work outdoors or in well-ventilated areas. Resin can cause severe burns, so handle with care. The pieces to be joined must be warmed before applying the glue. Pine resin has been used as glue and sealant since prehistoric times. It’s completely non-toxic (historically, it was used as medicine and chewing gum) and creates waterproof bonds ideal for boat building. In Europe, pitch was manufactured from Scots pine and Siberian larch forests for naval use. The resin was also mixed with small amounts of oil to reduce brittleness for boat seam caulking. Sets hard and brittle when cool but can be softened with gentle heat for repairs. Store solid resin indefinitely and melt as needed.
18. How to make waterproof resin glue – homemade recipe
Qualities: This combination glue is very strong and waterproof, making it suitable for outdoor use. It requires heating to apply but creates durable bonds that resist weather.
Typical uses: Outdoor woodworking, water-resistant joints, general waterproof repairs, adhering materials exposed to weather.
Ingredients for resin glue (makes roughly 250 ml)
- 15 g sandarac resin
- 15 g mastic resin
- 50 ml alcohol: ethanol (methylated spirits, denatured alcohol) or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
- 25 ml turpentine
- 100 g hide glue
- 50 g isinglass
- 200 ml water (for hide glue and isinglass)
Method: Dissolve the sandarac and mastic in alcohol to create a solution. Add turpentine to this mixture. In a separate vessel, prepare strong, hot solutions of hide glue and isinglass with water in equal quantities. Place the resin-alcohol mixture in a pot over heat and bring to the boil. Add the hot hide glue and isinglass solution in equal quantity to the boiling resin mixture, stirring to combine. Filter through a cloth while still hot to remove any impurities.
Notes: (Safety tip) Alcohol and turpentine are highly flammable so keep away from open flames during initial mixing. Heat only the combined mixture carefully. Work in a well-ventilated area. This creates a strong, waterproof adhesive by combining the water resistance of resins with the strength of protein glues. Must be applied hot – keep the glue pot warm while you work. Sandarac is a resin from the sandarac tree native to North Africa; mastic is from the mastic tree from Mediterranean regions. Both are available from specialist suppliers of art materials and natural resins. The combination of resins, protein glues, and solvents creates a waterproof bond suitable for outdoor applications. Store in a sealed jar and reheat gently in a water bath when needed.
19. How to make flexible adhesive – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: This adhesive remains pliable when dry and won’t crack, making it ideal for materials that flex or bend. It dries translucent and maintains flexibility even after curing.
Typical uses: Adhering paper, cloth, leather, flexible materials, applications requiring movement, bookbinding, covering curved surfaces.
Ingredients for flexible dextrin glue (makes roughly 250 ml)
- 15 g starch
- 7 g white dextrin
- 40 ml cold water
- 1 tsp vinegar
- 12 ml glycerine
- 250 ml boiling water
Method: Stir together the starch, dextrin, and cold water until completely dissolved with no lumps. In a separate vessel, add the vinegar to the boiling water then add the glycerine and stir to combine. Pour the starch mixture into the vinegar solution while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the mixture becomes translucent.
Notes: The glycerine is crucial as it acts like a plasticiser, keeping the dried adhesive pliable rather than brittle. This prevents cracking when used on materials that flex or bend. Particularly useful for applications where the bonded materials will move or curve, such as covering boxes, bookbinding, or adhering fabric to flexible surfaces. The vinegar acts as a preservative (historically borax was used, but this isn’t available anymore – don’t use Borax Substitute products as they have the wrong chemical makeup). The paste remains workable for several weeks if stored in a sealed container. Apply with a brush or spreader.
20. How to make quick-dry glue (spirit hide glue) – homemade recipe
Qualities: This hide glue preparation dissolves without heat and keeps for years in storage. It’s convenient and provides moderate to strong adhesion without requiring a glue pot.
Typical uses: Quick repairs, craft projects, general-purpose adhesive, applications where heating glue is inconvenient.
Ingredients for quick-dry spirit glue (makes 250 ml)
- 85 g hide glue granules
- 165 ml alcohol: ethanol (methylated spirits, denatured alcohol) or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
Method: Place the hide glue granules in a bottle. Add alcohol until the glue is completely covered. Cork tightly and set aside for 3 days, shaking occasionally. The glue will dissolve in the alcohol without requiring heat.
Notes: The alcohol dissolves the hide glue proteins at room temperature, eliminating the need for the traditional hot glue pot. This creates a ready-to-use adhesive that’s particularly convenient for small repairs and craft work. Keeps for years in a sealed bottle because the alcohol acts as a preservative. The strength is less than a properly prepared hot hide glue, but adequate for many applications. Apply directly from the bottle as needed. The alcohol evaporates as the glue dries, leaving the protein adhesive behind. This glue was valued historically for its convenience, especially in work environments where maintaining a hot glue pot was impractical.
21. How to make removable adhesive (beeswax tack) – homemade recipe (V)
Qualities: This adhesive provides temporary hold and is easily removed without damaging surfaces. It’s repositionable and softens with finger warmth, making it ideal for temporary applications.
Typical uses: Temporary mounting, positioning elements before permanent fixing, mock-up work, holding patterns in place, temporary labels.
Ingredients for removable beeswax glue (makes roughly 100 g)
- 50 g yellow beeswax
- 50 g turpentine
- 1 teaspoon powdered pigment (natural or synthetic) – optional, for colour only
Method: Melt the beeswax gently over low heat. Add an equal weight of turpentine and stir to combine. If desired, add finely powdered Venetian red for colour and continue stirring until evenly mixed. Pour into a shallow tin or mould and allow to cool completely.
Notes: (Safety tip) Turpentine is flammable and has strong fumes so work in a well-ventilated area away from open flames. Heat beeswax gently as it can ignite if overheated. The addition of pigment isn’t functional; it simply colours the adhesive for better visibility. So you can buy pigment specifically for this purpose or use up pigments you already have because the colour is up to you! When cold, this glue sets to approximately the consistency of soap that softens easily with finger warmth, allowing you to mould and shape it. The wax provides the adhesive quality while the turpentine keeps it pliable. Press onto surfaces to create a temporary hold. The adhesive can be repositioned and reused multiple times. It comes off cleanly without residue from most surfaces. Invaluable for temporarily sticking things together while you work out positioning or await permanent fixing. Historically used in workshops for holding work pieces, positioning veneers before gluing, and similar temporary applications. Store at room temperature in a covered container.
Notes about homemade glues
Testing and curing
Always test unfamiliar glues on scrap material before using them on actual projects – different materials absorb and bond differently. Allow full cure time before putting stress on joints. Most glues continue strengthening for up to 48 hours after they appear dry. What feels set after an hour might still fail under load; what seems weak initially often develops considerable strength given time.
Application technique
Thin layers bond more strongly than thick ones – this is counterintuitive but consistent across almost all adhesives. When possible, apply glue to both surfaces rather than just one, then bring them together. Work the glue into the material with your brush rather than simply spreading it on top; this ensures better penetration and adhesion. Clean surfaces before gluing – dust, oil, and old finish all prevent proper bonding.
Room temperature significantly affects how quickly glues dry and set. Cold makes many glues too thick to work with comfortably, and heat can cause them to set before you’ve positioned everything properly. Humidity slows the drying of water-based glues considerably – something that dries in an hour during winter might take three in summer dampness.
Clean-up
Clean your brushes and tools immediately after use. Most glues are simple to remove while still fresh but become significantly harder once dried. Warm water works for protein-based glues, alcohol for resin-based ones. If you’re working on a project that will take time, keep brushes in water (for water-based glues) or wrap them tightly in cling film to prevent drying between applications.
Storage and shelf life
Label each batch with the date and type of glue (they can look surprisingly similar once they’re in jars). Water-based glues keep longer when refrigerated, though most will still only last a week or two before spoiling. If a glue separates in storage, stir it gently rather than shaking to avoid introducing air bubbles that will transfer to your work. Airtight containers prevent surface drying and extend usable life considerably.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why are homemade glues 'better' than commercial glues?
Homemade glues avoid petroleum-derived ingredients, reduce plastic packaging waste, and use renewable resources like milk, flour, tree resins, or plant materials. They don’t off-gas volatile organic compounds during use or curing. The ingredients are biodegradable and their production has a smaller carbon footprint than synthetic polymer manufacture. That said, some recipes use ingredients with their own environmental considerations – hide glue is an animal product, and resins require careful harvesting. The environmental benefit is clearest when you make only what you need, avoiding the waste of partially used tubes languishing in a kitchen drawer.
Do you need special equipment to make glue at home?
No. The recipes here use standard kitchen equipment – saucepans, bowls, jars, sieves, and the occasional bain-marie (double boiler), which can be just a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. The most specialised tool mentioned is a mortar and pestle for grinding ingredients, and even that’s optional for most recipes. If you can make porridge, you can make most of these glues.
Which glue is right for my project?
Start with what you need the glue to do. If you need waterproofing, look at the casein-lime, linseed oil, or pitch recipes. If you need reversibility (for conservation work or repairs you might want to undo later), choose hide glue or gelatine. For children’s projects, stick to the flour pastes, rice paste, or milk glues. For strong wood joints, hide glue remains unmatched. The ‘Typical uses’ section in each recipe gives specific guidance, but the fundamental question is always: does this need to be permanent, waterproof, flexible, or reversible?
Can homemade glues match modern adhesives for serious projects?
For specific applications, yes, and sometimes they’re even superior. Hide glue remains the choice for fine furniture restoration and musical instrument making because it’s reversible and doesn’t creep under stress. Casein glues were used for structural applications, including aircraft plywood, and are still specified for some conservation work. Pitch has waterproofed boats for millennia and still does. Where homemade glues fall short is in convenience and shelf life, as most need to be made fresh or stored carefully; they won’t sit unused in a drawer for years like synthetic adhesives. They also require a little more attention – temperature control for hide glue, working time awareness for lime-based glues, and proper surface preparation throughout.
What causes glues to fail and how can that be prevented?
The most common failures are dirty surfaces, wrong glue choice for the materials, and impatience. Clean your surfaces thoroughly – dust, grease, and old finishes all prevent bonding. Match the glue to the job – don’t use water-based glues outdoors, don’t use rigid glues on flexible materials, don’t use weak glues for structural joins. Allow proper curing time before stressing the joint – what feels dry after an hour often takes up to 48 hours to reach full strength. Other frequent problems are applying glue too thickly (thin layers bond stronger), working in extreme temperatures (too cold and glues won’t flow, too hot and they set before you’re ready), and storing glues improperly (most water-based glues need refrigeration and don’t keep long).